TCS PROBLEM

I have a '95 Millenia S with a weird problem. Sometimes the TCS OFF light appears on the dashboard for no reason, and when it does, the engine won't rev any higher than 2500 rpm. If I step on the gas the engine starts sputtering like it's going to cut off. If I turn off the engine and restart the car, the engine revs all the way to the redline. Anybody else ever have this problem???

Hey, TCS is linked to your motor somehow because as people have mentioned, it helps to control the torque to your wheels in the event they slip. Does the light go out after a while, or do you have to restart each time? I have had it happen on my 99S a couple of times, but only for about a minute each time - and it was when it was cold. If I were you, I'd take it to Mazda, and ask them what they think. Then get a second opinion :-) Maybe they could just hook up their diags, and tell you in a second, what's going on. Good luck. Let us know what happens! Cheers, Mark.

Hey, I was told by the dealership that when its cold, the tcs needs to warm up with the car, therefore it is disable for a while until the car warms up a little bit. It usually will take a minute or two before the light goes out on a cold day.

look for a vacuum problem or leak .iam assuming you are talking about a eunos 800m

I'm having a similar problem with my 2000 millenia s. The TCS light comes on randomly and I loose all acceleration ( i step on the accelerator & I get 0 response) so I put it in neutral, turn the car off and back on and everything goes back to normal. Any ideas?I've heard its the module overheating or a throttle sensor issue...Help

tcs off/tcs lites on the dash, and car will not rev above 2500 is limp home. the pcm has stopped communication with tcm, and pcm has put the car in limp home mode. you should also have cel illuminated, possibly flashing. most common codes are p1525/1526 and 1540. these are vacuum and vent solenoid CIRCUITS, and 1540 is abv(air bypass valve), kinda like a wastegate on a turbo. when max boost is reached, the abv opens and bleeds of excess boost.

you should first ohm your solenoids. they live on the back of the engine, to the driver's side of the egr valve. you will see a row of 4 solenoids, you want the 2nd and the 4th. they should ohm at about 25-29. if 0, or high, they are bad. do this when they are hot. the rear bank gets a lot more heat than the front, and when cool, the solenoids will operate normally, but fail when hot. also, check the entire vacuum line system going to the solenoids. i have replaced all the lines and tees on both our cars. we have 2 99's. the pcm is uber anal about overboost. so, if there is a problem with abv, and boost cannot be controlled, pcm will throw the car into limp home. dont be fooled by the "turn the car off, then restart, tcs off/tcs lites stay off" but only for a very short time. or, "after sitting overnite, car runs normal until warmed up" the solenoids are dying. change them now, check your vacuum lines, and drive off for many years to come